Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Turkey (3/3): Istanbul

Our last stop was Istanbul. And, yes, we were there in the middle of the protests in a hotel about 15 minutes away from Taksim Square. We gambled and it payed off big time in that they didn't affect our enjoyment of that breathtaking city.

Highlights of our trip included a relaxing dinner on the terrace of our apartment, walking around our amazing neighborhood, seeing all the history of Old Istanbul and taking in the scenery of this beautiful city.

We hit the Dolmabahçe Palace, the Topaki Palace, Hagia Sophia, the Cisterns, the Blue Mosque and I'm sure I'm forgetting something. I had gone to the Grand Bazaar last trip and decided the kids wouldn't enjoy it (plus it made me nervous we might lose one there as it is crowded) so we only got close enough to go back to the rug store our guide took us to last time.

Our accommodation location near the top of the Tunel and the Galata Tower in the Beyoğlu neighborhood was fabulous. It is such a vibrant and interesting neighborhood with lots of interesting shops and good restaurants. I would definitely stay in that neighborhood again if I went back. I loved our apartments, too. We rented four of them in the Galata Flats. They all had new bathrooms and kitchens and the whole building was very nicely redone recently. The kids could wander from apartment to apartment and we could get most anywhere by walking, the Tunel and the tram. Highly recommended place for families to stay. Our apartment had 2 bedrooms and two bathrooms, a kitchen and laundry and a big terrace. Lovely.

We also did a Bosphorus River cruise. It is such a beautiful body of water with great sites along the shore. It's amazing to cruise along the border of Europe and Asia. And on our second to last day, we took a ferry out to the Princes Islands (a group of islands with beaches, bicycles, views but no cars). It was a little disappointing (the other families rented bikes and they sounded like safely hazards). We took their advice and did a horse and buggy ride but bailed on the islands before dinner to return to where the good food is in our neighborhood.

Our time in Istanbul was filled and we could have easily stayed longer - museums, charming neighborhoods, scenery. Again, this city has it all.


The terrace of the Puryear apartment.  We had someone bring in
home-cooked food that night and he grilled our meats and some of
our veggies in the grill in the upper right.  The kids got pasta in the Shield's
apartment and I love the text that Currie sent her mom - something like 'we
made it to Istanbul and I'm babysitting 11 kids with protests
outside' (just what her mom needed to stop worrying about her child!  We
really didn't work her that hard all the time, Mary, I promise!

On the Tunel (the world's 2nd oldest subway) - a short funicular
train with just two stops (top and bottom of hill).  We stayed
very near the top which was a great location.

At the last royal residence of the Ottoman Empire (Dolmabahçe Palace)


Foot covers to protect the beautiful rugs inside (no photos allowed inside)

Hagia Sophia in the background

Inside the Hagia Sofia


Took all 11 kids for a walk while we waited on pizza.
Ran into what we thought was a group of protesters.
Turns out it was the Pride Parade

At Topaki Palace and Museum - beautiful Iznik tiles everywhere.

Nice view of Istanbul from the top of Topaki


The Blue Mosque

Watching how rugs are made

I had spied some rugs that I loved on my girls' trip to Istanbul in May.
So I took Jake back and we bought these two.  They are old recycled
rugs (so not big fancy handmade silk ones that you could spend a fortune on).
They are cut up and "over-dyed" to give them a new color.  The green/ gray
one was over-dyed as one piece while the colorful one behind was dyed
before being sewn together.  They have arrived in Abu Dhabi - yay!


I did a Bosphorus cruise on my previous trip but we just walked up to
a pier and found a rickety old boat doing a standard trip but there was no
guide so I didn't know what we were seeing.  This time
Louisa found THIS.  Oh, yeah, not a bad way to cruise the border
between Asia and Europe.

Betty and Brad taking in the view from the Bosphorus

Louisa and Robbie



Palaces everywhere (and Andy, too!)

Taking a horse and buggy ride on one of the Princes Island


View from our buggy

Scenic stop

My pretty girls




Waiting for the ferry to take us back to the city

Playground!





A very compelling beggar cat - it convinced my kids they
*had* to give it money for food.

Ferry ride between Princes Islands and Istanbul

Anna loved our shower.  It had a little holder so that it made
an "Anna-sized shower"






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